Yesterday I placed the carpet back into position and almost had the baseboard trim in place.
I say ‘almost’ as there were some gaps which I wanted to see if I could reduce.
So, I found some finishing nails from a prior project and proceeded to hammer a few of them into areas with what I thought was excessive gaps between the baseboard trim and the base of the wall. My goal was to reduce as much of this gap as practical to both have a uniform finished appearance and reduce the amount of caulking I would use.
Of course one has to be careful when hammering nails into baseboard trim to not damage the trim, hence the use of metal spike you see in the picture above.
While a few slightly excessive gaps remained, I was pretty pleased with how things looked and was ready to apply the caulking onto the gaps as well as on top of the exposed nail heads in the baseboard trim.
Now, one reason why I really like this type of caulking tube from DAP is that you can remove the top end to separately cut an opening in the tube as well as make a really small opening in the tip.
I find a lot of people (as I used to in the past myself) tend to apply excessive caulking resulting in a messy finished appearance. So, what I did here was to simply use one of the left over finishing nails to make a very small opening in the tip as you can see in the picture below. Most of the top of the baseboard trim had only a very small gap between it and the wall.
As well, at both ends of the trim there were also very narrow areas to be caulked. So, I only wanted a very small bead of caulking to come out of the tube.
Additionally, with this type of caulking tube I can see if it is usable caulking right at the start or not. In the above picture you can see that once I cut the top of the tube it was clear that the first amount of caulking was not usable so I made sure before applying any caulking I would push out this part until only usable caulking was coming out from the tube.
In the above picture you can see the narrow bead of caulking which came out from the tube. I proceeded to place this narrow bead first at one end then on the entire top of the baseboard trim, then at the other end of the trim, followed by a little dab on top of each exposed nail head, a little tip which Fitz from Clarke Basement Systems gave me as he was finishing up the foundation wall crack repair. Tips such as this one, about using two, not one, primer coast on the repaired drywall area to promote a uniform tone of the paint were really appreciated, even though this finishing part of the project was not his responsibility.
Once done, I simply used my finger to smooth the caulking along the top, at the two ends and on each exposed nail head. In some places the gap at the top needed additional caulking for a more uniformed look. Not a problem. Just make sure when you are using your finger to smooth the caulking that you have with you a piece of paper towel to wipe the excess caulking from your finger as well as a damp cloth to remove any excess caulking which may find its way onto the painted wall!
So how did it come out? Below are a few final pictures.
All in all, I think the finished product looks pretty good, even with me doing it. I do see an area at the bottom of the baseboard trim where the carpet is sunken below trim. This is not a big deal at all to fix. I will do that later. For now, I need to leave this project because I need to focus on our investigation of solar panels on our roof as well as replacing the floor tile in our front foyer.
Thank you Clarke Basement Systems. I now can rest easy that no more water leaks will occur in our basement, at least not from the foundation wall crack which you repaired. And one would never know that there was a problem in first place with the finished repair of the drywall patch applied after the foundation wall crack was fixed.
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