In Part 6 is mentioned that I used a small hammer to secure the caps on top of the locking hardware but that this was not recommended. In this article I will tell you why.
I used a small hammer on the anchoring hardware because I wanted to ensure that the solar blind would not be blown off by a strong wind. So I used the hammer on the caps for the first, oh, 60 or so fastening hardware with no issue.
But, on number 61 … ouch … (and I don’t mean my fingers :-) ) part of the fastening hardward broke; not the cap (on the left in the picture below) and not the 3M anchoring hardware (on the right in the picture below) . Rather, it was the female hardware (in the middle in the picture below) between the cap and the anchor.
However, not to worry. It was easy enough to replace.
Really, it was more embarrassing than anything else. There was really no need to use the hammer. I mean, this solar blind product can be used on the windows of a recreational vehicle (RV). I have to think that the wind which will be exposed to the exterior solar blind on a moving RV will likely be greater than that which will be exposed to this product on the outside of our family room window.
Lucky for me, it was very easy to simply replace the broken female hardware with another piece.
However, since I do not own an RV (and don’t plan to in the future), I would appreciate hearing from someone who has used the EZ Snap solar blind on their RV to learn from their experiences. Please drop me a line or add a comment below.
To continue with the next article in this series, simply select this link to Part 11.
2 responses so far ↓
1 Radkins // May 2, 2009 at 1:50 pm
What about arch windows installations..??
2 Dan // May 2, 2009 at 1:59 pm
Hi Radkings,
Thank you for your comment and for visiting our site.
If you (and perhaps you already have) look at the other articles in this series on our installation of the EZ Snap solar window shades product, you will see that they can fit any sized window.
So, for arched windows you would simply need to measure the dimensions of the window, noting in particular the angle / degree / duration (i.e. length) of the arch and cut the roll containing the material accordingly, leaving the same 1 to 2 inch excess for any errors in your measurements.
As far as the ’snap’ hardware, if the window frame around the arch is flat, then you would I woudl think use either the ’standard’ anchoring hardware or the adhesive hardware depending on your preference. If the window frame is itself curved such that it does not provide a flat surface for the adhesive type of anchoring hardware (which is what we used) then I would think you would need to use the standard anchoring hardware.
I hope that helps!
Dan
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